Permanent waving



pt, 2U, 13$. I E. F. SUTER 2,3334% PERMANENT wAvINe Filed Jan. 13, 19361 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fglled Jan. 13, 1936 E'%JI;JVENTCRATT-O R N EYS Patented Sept. 20, 1938 PATENT OFFICE PERMANENT WAVINGEugene F. Suter, New York, N. Y., assignor to Eugene, Ltd., New York, N.Y., a corporation of New York Application January 13, 1936, Serial No.58,836

9 Claims. (01. 132-36) The invention relates to permanent waving andmore especially to a method and means for facilitating and improving theoperation of electrolytically conductive permanent wave heaters andlotion applicators.

invention.

Of the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a tool embodying the mechanical featuresof the invention;

Fig. 2 is an elevation showing said tool in use;

Fig. 3 is a horizontal section on line 3-3 of Fig. 2, but showing thejaws of the tool in open position;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 showing the jaws in closed position;

Fig. 5 is an elevation showing a modified form of tool;

Fig. 6 is a similar view showing said modified tool being used for arewaving effect; and

Fig. *7 shows a modified corrugation of the compressing jaws.

The invention is directed to providing a novel and useful method andmeans for improving the certainty and uniformity of operation ofpermanent wave heaters, especially of the type wherein heat is createdby the passage of electric current through an electrolyticallyconducting medium, such as the heating meansshown and described in thepatents to Durham and Finnegan No. 2,014,246 and Durham No. 2,022,657.

One object of the invention is to insure uniformity of heating action byimparting a predetermined compression to the electrolytic heating tubeor sachet, thereby increasing and simultaneously standardizing theconductivity of the various heating devices on the customers head.

The invention insures such uniformity of heating and also preventsundesired escape of steam and vapor from'the curl being heated,regardless of variations in the thickness and shape of different curls.

In commercial practice it is desirable and necessary to supplyelectrolytic heating tubes of uniform diameter and the interior diameterof such tubes must necessarily exceed somewhat the thickness of theheaviest curl on a head of hair. After slipping the heating tube overthe curl it is customary for the operator to compress the tube by handso as to ermance the conductivity of the electrolytic heating unit andform a substantially vapor-tight chamber about the curl. The amount ofcompression will depend largely upon the thickness of the individualcurl to which a tube is applied. It has been found in practice that manyoperators are careless and inefiicient about properly compressing saidtubes, thereby producing non-uniform heating effects on the differentcurls and on different parts of the same curl. Also compression by hand,even when carefully done, is inevitably non-uniform, and in the case ofa thin curl is apt to produce wrinkles or folds along the interior ofthe heating tube. Such folds frequently form steam channels which directthe steam downwardly against the customers scalp or upwardly and out ofthe tube so that the heating and vapor application of the tube isdiminished. This is most usual but also most undesirable with thin orfine hair, which frequently requires the most prolonged and intensesteaming. Furthermore, the careful hand compression of the tubes is atedious and timeconsuming operation and is attended with some discomfortto the customer. By the present invention, a uniform compression iseffected entirely about the tube without wrinkling or distorting theinterior surface thereof. Thus an increase in conductivity is attendedwith enhanced uniformity of heating effect, while a very tight andcomfortable steam chamber is formed about the curl.

According to the invention, moreover, pressure is applied externally ofthe heating pad or sacket in its position when wrapped or applied aroundor upon the coiled tress of hair, whereby the external electrode orlayer is more or less deformed, or its normal circumference reduced.This effect may, according to the invention, be secured under thepressure imposed, by the formation in the external electrode or layer ofa1- ternate ridges and grooves that are advanta geously' disposedsubstantially parallel, whereby pressure is thus transmitted to theabsorbent layer on parallel lines.

, Another object of the invention is to impregnate the curl with acertain amount of the waving fluid prior to beginning the heatingaction,

better results frequently being obtained by such preliminary wetting ofthe hair with the lotion. By virtue of the present invention, asubstantial amount of the waving fluid is squeezed out of the absorbentmember and forced into the hair, or a portion thereof, and absorbedthereby prior to the commencement of heating. This not only improves thewaving action but it also prevents the dripping of hot liquid on to thehead which has heretofore occurred due tothe extruding effect of the gascreated by the initial flow of current through the electrolyte.

A further object of the invention is to impart a differentialcompression to the electrolytic heating device along the curl, therebyfurther accommodating the heating tube and heating action to thepeculiar shape or other characteristics of the curl. This feature of theinvention has a special value in cases where it is desired to heat theroot portion of the curl more thoroughly than the ends, as is commonlydone in a rewave. operation where the endspf the hair contain an oldpermanent wave and it is desired to apply the principal heating to thefresh growth near the scalp. With such differential compression thegreater. amount of waving fluid is also expressed into the portion ofthe hair nearer the scalp, thereby further enhancing the waving effectin that portion.

For carrying out the novel and improved operations hereinbeforedescribed the invention provides a special tube-compressing tool whichis adapted to be applied successively to the heating tubes on theseveral curls of a head. Said tool is constructed to reduce the tubes toa substantially uniform exterior diameter and to compress them so thatthe interior cylindrical surface of' the tube contacts intimately Withthe curl.

It will be understood that the foregoing general description and thefollowing detailed description as well are exemplary and explanatory ofthe invention but are not restrictive thereof.'

Referring now in detail to the present preferred embodiment of theinvention, illustrated by way of example in the accompanying draw ings,theinvention is shown applied to anelectrolytic heating. and lotionapplying tube of the type hereinbefore identified. Said tube (Figs. 2

and 3) comprises a cylindrical exterior electrode l formedof'compressible metallic foil, an intermediate absorbent cylinder 2which is an electric insulator when dry but is adapted to absorb apredetermined quantity of an electrolytically conductive hair wavingfluid, and an interior electrode 3 'of compressible metal foil. Theinterior electrode 3 is preferably perforated at least in the portionadapted to contact with the curl, such perforations 4 being designed toemit steam and vapor on to the curl. Usually the interior surface of theinner foil cylinder is provided with an insulating coating such as theparchment paper 5 and said coating is perforated in register with theperforations 4 of the inner foil. The interior diameter of the tube isslightly greater than the thickness of the greatest curls, and thelength of said tube is preferably somewhat greater than the longestcurl. The electrolytic heating tube is shown applied to a curl 6 woundabout a curling rod 1 and it is understood that there would be sometwenty to forty such curls so prepared on a customers head.

Referring now to' the embodied means for applying uniformcircumferential compression to the heating tube, the invention providesa comchamber.

pression or squeezing tool comprising a pair of substantiallysemi-cylindrical, opposed jaw members If] and H. Said jaw members aredesigned to form, when closed, a substantially continuous cylinderhaving an interior diameter substantially less than the exteriordiameter of the heating tube.

The axial length of the jaws is substantially greater than the diameterof the cylinder formed by them and is preferably about the length of anaverage or somewhat longer curl. To facilitate the formation of acomplete cylinder when closed,

it will be noted that the opening or front edges of the jaws areprovided with intermeshing tongues 29 and slots 2! and similar tonguesand slots 22 and.23 are provided at the interengaging rear edges of thejaws.

The jaw members are pivotally mounted to open and close about an axisexterior to their linear surface and parallel to an element thereof. Asshown, a pair of handle levers I2 and I3 are pivotally connectedintermediate their ends by a pin I4 and the short curved ends I 5 and itof the levers are attached to the jaws I0 and II respectively. Asuitable spring I1 is provided for normally urging the jaws apart.

The cylindrical jaws are designed to compress the tube and reduce theexterior circumference thereof while maintaining the interiorcircumference as smooth and devoid of wrinkles or steam channels aspracticable. For this purpose the interior surfaces of the jaws arepreferably corrugated by a plurality of evenly spaced axial grooves 25.The operation of the device'is'illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4. Theultimate form of the heating tube is shown in Fig. 4 and it willbejnoted that the inner surface clings closely and uniformly to the curlwhile the outer foil is compressed entirely around its circumference ina substantially uniform manner.

It has been found that in most operations it is desirable to compressthe heating tube so as to impede the axial movement of vapor, steamand/or liquid in the compressed portion and thereby form the mosteffective and safe heating than axial, and in Fig. 7 is shown one ofsaid jaws corrugated with transverse annular grooves E25. In this formof the device the tube will be compressed in a series of horizontal ortransverse rings, the lands between the grooves I25 serving to formsuccessive bafiies to the axial movement of steam, vapor and liquidwithin the steaming chamber.

Referring to the modified form shown in Fig. 5, means are illustratedfor compressing the curl substantially in accordance with its taperingcontour caused by the naturally decreasing thickness of a curl fromroots to tip. As shown the jaws l0 and II of the tool are formed in afrustro-conical shape and as applied the curl would be compressedsubstantially uniformly throughout its length by virtue of the diametraldiminution of the closed jaws.

For enhancing the heating effect of a curl adjacent the scalp end, as inrewaving operations, the invention provides for compressing the scalpportion of the curl only, or to a greater extent than the outer portionthereof. This operation may be conveniently performed by reversing thefrustro-conical tool so that the smaller diameter thereof is applied tothe thicker part of the curl For this purpose the compressor jaws ID andH may be corrugated in a direction other near the scalp. This operationwill effectively compress the lower part of the tube to a greaterarsog'ms If desired; atool having shorter jaws for com=- pressing thelower part of the curl only may be provided in lieu of the tapered formshown in Fig. 6.

While here shown in the preferred form as an integral tube, the heatingpad or sachet may be provided of separate tubular parts. Thus instead ofan inner foil or electrode, the curling rod itself may be provided asthe inner electrode and the electric current may pass through the hairtress which for the purpose may be impregnated with a hair-waving lotionadapted to serve as electrolyte. In such case the absorbent layer may besecured to the outer tubular electrode as shown and claimed for examplein Patent No. 2,028,051. Or again the outer tubular electrode may beprovided separate from the inner tubular electrode and absorbent layer,and when so separately provided the outer electrode may be of metal foilmounted upon an external foundation layer such as hereinbeforedescribed, or a separate sheet of metal formed to a tubular shape andadapted to be more or less permanently deformed on compression andcompacting of the tubular heater thus formed.

The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specificmechanisms shown and described but departures may be made therefromwithin the scope of the accompanying claims without departing from theprinciples of the invention and without sacrificing its chiefadvantages.

What I claim is:

1. In a process of permanent waving wherein the heating and steaming ofa wound curl is effected by placing an electrolytically conductiveheating and lotion carrying device adjacent the hair, the steps ofapplying external radial pressure to said device substantially uniformlyaround the portion thereof embracing the curl whereby to increase andrender uniform the electrical conductivity of said device and to forcelotion out of the device into the hair and thereafter passing currentelectrolytically through said device to heat and steam the hair.

2. In the process of permanent waving wherein the heating and steamingof a wound curl is effected by placing an electrolytically conductiveheating and lotion carrying device adjacent the hair, the steps ofuniformly reducing the exterior circumference of said device by applyingsubstantially uniform radial pressures thereto at spacedapart intervalswhereby to increase and render uniform the electrical conductivity ofsaid device and to force lotion out of the device into the hair andthereafter passing current electrolytically through said device to heatand steam the hair.

3. In the process of permanent waving wherein the heating and steamingof a wound curl is effected by placing an electrolytically conductiveheating and lotion carrying cylinder around the hair, the steps ofapplying external radial pressure to said device substantially uniformlyaround the portion thereof embracing the curl whereby to increase andrender uniform the electrical conductivity of said device and to forcelotion out of the device into the hair, said pressure being different atdifferent points axially of the cylinder to control the heating effectalong the curl and thereafter passing current electrolytically throughsaid device. to heat and steam the i; device for shaping and compressinga tubular electrolytic heating device upon a wound curl comprising apairof semi-cylindrical jaws mounted for openingand closing movement tocompress the heating device in cylindrical form when on a curl, theaxial length of said jaw members being several times greater than thediameter of the cylinder formed by their closure and the interiordiameter of said closed cylinder being less than the normal exteriordiameter of the heating device and means for opening the jawssufficiently to encompass said heating device before it has beencompressed.

5. A device for shaping and compressing a tubular electrolytic heatingdevice upon a wound curl comprising a pair of semi-cylindrical jawsmounted for opening and closing movement, the jaws when closed forming acylinder of less interior diameter than the normal exterior diameter ofthe heating device whereby to evenly compress said heating device incylindrical form when on a curl and means for opening the jawssufiiciently to encompass said heating device before it has beencompressed.

6. A device for shaping and compressing a tubular electrolytic heatingdevice upon a wound curl comprising a pair of semi-cylindrical jawsmounted for opening and closing movement about an axis substantiallyparallel to that of the curl, the jaws when closed forming a cylinder ofless interior diameter than the normal exterior diameter of the heatingdevice whereby to evenly compress said heating device in cylindricalform when on a curl, the interior surfaces of said jaws being corrugatedby axial grooves and means for opening the jaws sufficiently toencompass said heating device before it has been compressed.

7. A device for shaping and compressing a tubular electrolytic heatingdevice upon a wound curl comprising a pair of semi-cylindrical jawsmounted for opening and closing movement about an axis substantiallyparallel to that of the curl to compress the heating device incylindrical form when on a curl, the axial length of said jaw membersbeing several times greater than the diameter of the cylinder formed bytheir closure, the jaws when closed forming a cylinder of less interiordiameter than the normal exterior diameter of the heating device wherebyto evenly compress said heating device in cylindrical form when on acurl and means for opening the jaws sufliciently to encompass saidheating device before it has been compressed.

8. A device for shaping and compressing a tubular electrolytic heatingdevice upon a wound curl comprising a pair of semi-cylindrical jawsmounted for opening and closing movement about an axis substantiallyparallel to that of the curl to compress the heating device incylindrical form when on a curl, the axial length of said jaw membersbeing several times greater than the diameter of the cylinder formed bytheir closure, the jaws when closed forming a cylinder of less interiordiameter than the normal exterior diameter of the heating device wherebyto evenly compress said heating device in cylindrical form when on acurl and having an axial length several times its maximum diameter andmeans for opening the jaws sufficiently to encompass said heating devicebefore it has been compressed.

9. A device for shaping and compressing a tubular electrolytic heatingdevice upon a wound than the normal exterior diameter of the heatingdevice and means for opening the jaws sufficiently to encompass saidheating device before it has been compressed, the interior surfaces ofsaid jaws being corrugated by grooves transverse to 5 the axis thereof.

EUGENE F. SU'I'ER.

